For the value of an object, it is best to contact an antique dealer, appraiser or auction house, and not ask a restorer (for a reliable appraiser: www.noblehousevaluation.com) Whether an object has sufficient value to be restored is sometimes something you have to judge for yourself. For many people there is greater emotional value than a commercial one. Often people come by with an object from the family, because it was belonged to grandparents. Then it is nice to have it neatly again, and to be able to pass it on to children or grandchildren ...
Gently try to collect all the pieces, wrapping each piece in soft paper or bubble wrap
(to absorb impacts and vibrations). Put the smallest parts (splinters) in a separate bag. Never stack too many plates (they may have cracks that can break). Multiple plates in
a box can better stand longitudinally on the side. Put it all in a firm
box or basket.If you want to send it, put it in box in box!
Museums have professional methods of storage and transportation.
If you still want to glue an object yourself to prevent temporary loss of shards, choose for Velpon or something similar. This is a glue that can be released fairly easily. Especially no Bison kit and of such! These can permanently discolor porcelain and stoneware.
Dust with a dry or slightly damp cloth
Do not use aggressive cleaning agents that may contain acids or bases.
It is best not to use restored objects because of damage to the restoration material (do not put it in the dishwasher)
Provide a solid suspension system when it comes to dishes and plates. Use hanging systems with plasticized metal parts. Iron ones can damage edges (chips and fritting).
The owner is responsible for damage to or loss of an object during transport to and stay in the studio (because the object is not mine). You should contact your own home insurance. In most cases, during the restoration period and after notification to the insurer, your object will be covered by your own home insurance and will therefore be insured in my studio.